I am sitting in my little computer room and thinking about writing and riding all the while listening to the rain patter down on the roof and watching it dimple off the birdbath in the back yard. It’s been over a month now since my big ride to Laughlin and my three posts about that adventure. My riding has been pretty tame since then with one ride to Santa Barbara and only commutes to work to round it out. Rainy days are great for reading, writing, and considering things, all sorts of things, and most of them pretty pleasant. Riding in the rain is one of my least favorite conditions but I am reminded today about one of the many chapters in Jim’s and my big ride, so set the “WABAC” machine to August, 1972. Jim will likely have some different recollections on this and I can’t wait to hear them.
We broke camp, literally, somewhere in the Big Horn National Forest with building excitement for the end of the day’s ride, Yellowstone National Park. Taking off after packing everything on the bikes, Jim’s Honda 350 Scrambler and my Honda CB 500, we headed west on Wyoming State Highway 14 and had the road pretty much to ourselves on a grey day and mild temperatures. It wasn’t too long after we dropped out of the heavy forest area and winding our way along when we passed two Boy Scouts hitchhiking along. We passed them by and then looked at each other with the question hanging in the air between us, “Were those guys hitchhiking us?” We each shrugged our shoulders in a “why not” sort of way and doubled back to ask them. Since there was no one else on the road they were asking us or kidding around. When we asked them if they really wanted the ride they looked at each other real quick, shrugged their shoulders and said that they would ride. It took some doing on our relatively small bikes to put two up and all the gear for four guys securely mounted for the ride. We couldn’t do this today because we only had one spare helmet and that meant one rider was helmetless.
Not long after we rolled out with our Boy Scout friends we got our rhythm going and everybody seemed comfortable. Shortly before hitting Greybull, Wyoming we came out of the hill country and had a long plain in front of us; it was a beautiful sight up to the point where we could see the rain starting under the darkening sky. The clouds had thickened up and we could see the line of rain cutting the plain and putting up a curtain blocking out what we wanted to be seeing, Highway 14 stretching out and inviting us to Cody and beyond that to Yellowstone. Jim and I pulled over and broke the news to our passengers that we were putting on our rain gear and they were welcome to continue on or look for a covered ride. They were up to it though and put on rain gear of their own and five minutes later we were wet. So wet. When I tell the story these days I say that we went 150 miles in the rain but as I look at my US map today it was somewhat less than a hundred. It just seemed like 200 and I rounded down to make it believable.
We passed right through Cody hopping to still make Yellowstone and a place to make camp but it was not to be this day. In Wapiti, just before the climb up to the park entrance we were informed that the pass was closed due to snow. Over 8500 feet of elevation will do that, even in August. Just about everything we had with us was soaked; our cloths even through the rain gear, sleeping bags, and nearly everything in our packs so we looked for a laundry mat to dry what we could. The very kind woman who ran the place came out and belied all the warnings we received from the motorcycle shops that we would meet with people out to get us as motorcyclists. The fact was that with only one exception we ran into really great people all along our way and have kept them memory of them as a hopeful sign of the health of our country. She took pity on the four of us and unlocked the biggest set of dryers she had and we got it all dried out for free. Jim and I asked about hotels in the area but they were filling up fast with the pass closed and people delaying their entrance as well. Once she found out we were Christians she suggested a halfway house that a pastor friend of hers ran as a place to sleep. Our scout friends went their own way and we ours at that point.
We found the halfway house for drug addicted young people coming clean and were given the floor of the living room to bed down on and were grateful for it. We had gotten there later in the evening and the pastor was pretty busy but not so much so that we didn’t have a few minutes to talk. He was a good hearted man and cared for the drug weary folks seeking shelter just like the Good Shepherd himself. Giving us one last word on the rules of the place he noted that the police had free access to come in and check people for drugs and sure enough, our motorcycles and road worn looks brought them in around two in the morning. They were nice enough about it but flashlights in the eyes at that time of the morning after the long and wet ride were pretty harsh.
The storm passed through that night and we were greeted with the news that the pass was open and our trip would continue that day. We loaded up again, got breakfast at a home style coffee shop and were on our way. As we left Wapiti and the good folks we’d met behind we saw our scout friends just out of town on the road hitchhiking again. They saw us just after we saw them and they both suddenly needed to find out how much change they had in their pockets; they took no chances but missed a fantastic, if chilly, ride into Yellowstone National Park.